Salento and the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The three of us left Bogotá and made our way to the countryside town of Salento. By the time we arrived after a taxi, a coach and a minibus the light was fading. We found a hostel with a pretty central garden and Craig managed to negotiate a good price for all of us. Once rested we walked up the steep hill to the towns square and found a small local restaurant. Craig and I each had a vegetarian platter and it was truly delicious. A large plate of rice and beans, egg and avocado, fried peppers and onions with tomato relish and a crispy bread made us very happy especially after another day of travel.

Tall Wax Palms in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Riding in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The next morning we had a really tasty breakfast at the hostel, we could understand why the hostel price had been high as there was so much choice including cereal; a luxury we haven't seen too much of in South America. We walked to the main square and found a spot in a jeep to take us to the Cocora Valley a short drive away. The plan was to walk the trail through the valley but after a few minutes Carl said that it looked like a great place to go horse riding as there was a separate bridleway. We asked the man at the park entrance gate who made a call and ten minutes later three horses arrived with a wrangler. The horses were in great condition, something that I insist on before riding anywhere. The horses responded to the wranglers whistles which was incredible to witness, they'd turn or stop based on different whistle combinations.

Carl and Craig in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Grey and Bay; the Three of Us Riding in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The trail started fairly flat but gradually as we ascended through the valley the terrain became rocky and more challenging. In the distance were extremely tall wax palm trees rising above the canopy silhouetted against the white cloud. We crossed the river several times, sometimes having to duck under rickety looking rope bridges that the walkers would have to use. The horses hooves clattered on the rocks and splashed water all around. Every now and again the horses would jostle for front position, making me jump as they momentarily sped up along the rough ground. At a few points on the hack I felt out of my depth, the ride was more challenging than I'd experienced before but I tried to remain as confident as possible breathing deeply at the particularly difficult sections. We made it to the end destination in the dense forest and tied the horses to a tree while we walked on foot up a pathway to a wooden shack and hummingbird garden. Included in our park entry price was a drink so we opted for a hot chocolate not realising it included a chunk of cheese too. We were told to put the cheese in the hot chocolate as its a Colombian tradition but it seemed odd so I enjoyed mine separately. We watched the hummingbirds, there were several varieties, each one looked totally different to the other. Without our DSLR we weren't able to capture any especially good photos but the scenery from the shack was beautiful. I always mentally note the variety of plants, trees and leaf shapes I see as inspiration for future drawings. We returned to the horses and rode back; down the valley, over rocks, through rivers and onto the open trail. With just minutes to go rain started to spit spot and so the wrangler whistled and the three horses began to canter up the hill in an effort to return to the stables before the downpour. The horses were home and dry but we weren't, we waited for the downpour to desist to no avail so we made a break for it to the jeep stand. Suddenly we noticed dozens of walkers all arriving to catch a jeep and we all knew we'd have to battle it out for a place. A jeep arrived and a huge group swarmed around it claiming it as theirs as they had a bus to catch later that evening. A second jeep arrived and we decided to stand up at the back and cling on for dear life. The rain was pouring but despite getting drenched the ride was fun and felt adventurous. In the evening we ate dinner at Brunch a quirky place with writing all over the walls.

In the Butterfly House, Colombia  

The following day; was my 29th birthday. The lady working at the hostel must have spotted the date in my passport at check in and surprised me with a stack of birthday pancakes. After packing up our bags we set about getting to the botanical gardens which turned out to be a difficult task. Once finally there we learned that the entry fee was actually pretty expensive although when Craig mentioned that it was my birthday I was given a complimentary ticket. The gardens were also by guide only which seemed unusual and so the leisurely stroll I had imagined for my birthday would not be happening.

In the Botanical Garden, Colombia

In the Botanical Garden, Colombia

We were led around the garden which was more of a well maintained jungle and saw a huge owl perched on a branch in the trees. We climbed to the top of a rickety metal tower to see views of the treetops and butterfly shaped butterfly house which we also visited. One of the butterflies kept flying at Carl's face which Craig and I found hilarious and we managed to entice one onto our finger. We left the gardens by bus and made it back to Salento where I called my mum for a chat which was lovely. On our last backpacking trip five years ago we were in Fiji with no wifi or phone service and I remember feeling so sad that I couldn't speak to my mum. We picked up our bags and walked down the road to a peaceful location where we'd booked a private room for a couple of nights overlooking fields, forest and horses. We went out for dinner and then drinks at a tiny bar with memorabilia all over the walls and ceiling and were recognised by a couple who remembered seeing us on a walk in Chile.

Little Coffee Seedlings in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Coffee Plants Sheltered by Banana Trees in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

We spent the next day learning about coffee as the region is famous for it. We donned little wicker baskets tied to our hip and went out picking coffee beans, we then crushed them and watched as they were sorted by quality. The workers came at sat down for their lunch, wearing overalls covered in mud. They work so hard for such little cash but you wouldn't catch them complaining. At the end of the tour we were given a cup of pure, fresh, aromatic coffee to taste, it certainly wasn't your average Nescafé.

Freshly Picked Coffee in Baskets in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Crushed, Dried and Sorted Coffee in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The landscape around the coffee farm was lush and green, as is everywhere in the Cocora valley. We jumped in a jeep back to Salento, this time I managed to nab the front seat and spent the afternoon swaying gently in the hammocks with a peaceful view of the garden and birds.

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Ipiales and Bogotá, Colombia

A new country, a new month and a fresh start. Leaving the frustrations of Ecuador behind us we began our Colombian adventure in Ipiales, a border town and home to nearby Las Lajas; a church built on the side of a cliff and over a valley. We caught a colectivo (a shared taxi) to the sanctuary and walked down the slope to the church. It was a hot and sunny day, the early hour meant that we had the area to ourselves and we relished the peace. As we walked down we noticed little inscriptions carved into the wall and in memoriam plaques, little clusters of bright flowers broke up the grey stone. The church was magnificent, perched on a bridge over the valley and seemingly clinging to one side of the cliff. The detail on the church was of a gothic style and along the bridge there were statues of angels holding instruments, trombone included. Craig walked to a nearby viewpoint while I sat in the warm sun watching tiny birds flutter. In the afternoon we booked our coach to Bogotá, Colombia's capital. The 22 hour journey meant that we'd skip a few noteworthy towns along the way but we were keen to travel to the north of the country and spend the majority of our time there.

Flowers at Las Lajas, Colombia

Memoriam Plaques at Las Lajas, Colombia

After a long and uncomfortable overnight journey we arrived in Bogotá feeling groggy. The twisted roads wound around tiny villages, cliff edges and roadside food stalls causing some passengers to be sick. The situation wasn't helped by the drivers refusal to turn down the blaring music. Our hostel was based in La Candelaria, seemingly miles from the bus station. We struggled finding the correct bus but after asking locals managed to board the correct one. The heavy traffic meant it took ages to reach our district, we jumped off and proceeded to walk away from the chaos and into a visibly more artistic neighbourhood. Our hostel named Bella Vista was a cute place, tucked down an alley with locals and travellers alike selling jewellery and hippie merchandise on the street. After checking into our six bed dorm we went walking and found a local place to get some food. We attempted to find camera shops to buy a replacement DSLR but had no luck. In the evening Craig joined in with hostel-made cocktails while I attempted to help a Canadian girl learn a little basic Spanish before retreating to a quiet corner to pet the resident German Shepherd and do some journal writing.

The next morning we joined a very popular free graffiti tour, it was the biggest group we've ever seen or been part of. Our guide named Carlos was excellent and extremely knowledgable in the city's political history and the impact that that has had on the street art. The artists use their craft to comment on the country's leaders and its involvement in the notorious cartels. We learned of the tragedy of local homeless men being abducted, tortured and killed; they were presented as 'guerillas' and the killers were praised and given a monetary reward by the government, this act was represented in paint on the city's walls. The stories we heard were both heartbreaking and fascinating, the tour had been the best that we'd experienced in all of South America.

Street Art in our Grafitti Tour in Bogotá, Colombia

Street Art in our Grafitti Tour in Bogotá, Colombia

For lunch we popped into a Canadian fast food place selling poutine; French fries slathered in gravy and melted cheese. It was certainly a guilty pleasure but a welcome break from the similar fare that we'd been eating for the past several months. We met our buddy Carl after lunch who'd also just arrived in the city and we all took the cable car up to Monserrate Mountain which overlooks Bogotá and the miles around. The views were breathtaking, we sat by the church and watched the light change before exploring and enjoying a cake and a hot chocolate. As we descended the sun was setting which cast a vibrant orange glow over the buildings below.

At the Top of Monserrate Mountain, Bogotá  

At the Top of Monseratte Mountain, Bogotá  

Craig and I spent the next morning at the free Museo Botero named after Colombia's most famous artist. Botero paints his subject matter in a very particular way, every person he paints is made somewhat plumper, even his still life's seem chubbier than real life. His most famous painting is probably a recreation of Mona Lisa rendered in his signature style. The museum also houses impressionist work and sculpture as well as modern pieces. Craig's energy started to wane thanks to hunger so we left the galleries and met Carl at the square and had another helping of poutine before walking to Símon Bolívars house and garden.

Bolívars a Garden in Bogotá, Colombia

Sat in Bolívars Garden in Botogá, Colombia

I really enjoyed the gardens, there were narrow cobbled stone paths alongside beds bursting with all manner of plant life. The house itself was small and quaint, Craig and Carl were most interested in a famous sword that was at one point supposedly stolen by drug lord Pablo Escobar's cartel. A replica of the sword was on display but the original is said to be in Venezuela. Afterwards we squeezed in a visit to Museo del Oro, Bogotá's famous gold museum. The museum houses some of the finest examples of art made from gold; statuettes, fine jewellery and masks. The collection was in a wonderfully modern building with a basement level devoted to changing exhibitions. At the time of our visit we saw local handcrafted textiles. In the evening we ate at a burger restaurant next to an open fire and then popped to a cafe next door where a local live band were playing. The cafe was sweet and characterful, the waitresses were wearing puffy and colourful skirts while the men wore smart suits. We each enjoyed a drink while watching the band play, clapping the loudest at the end of each song.

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Otavalo and Mindo, Ecuador

Quito had been another whistle stop trip where we managed to see many sights in a short space of time. Ecuador being such a small country in South America and our goal to reach Mexico by May 1st meant that we were whizzing by and not wasting any time. We took a bus to Otavalo; a town north of Quito and famous for its huge weekend market. As we walked through the streets looking for a place to stay we saw that a parade was going on. Children dressed in bright sparkly costumes danced in formation behind cars blaring super loud dance music. It reminded me of Glastonbury Carnival. Spectators shot foam at each other from cans costing $1, inevitably some foam came our way. We found a hotel and Carl checked in, the hotel owner explained that the price was per person not per room which meant that it worked out to be too expensive for us. Slightly disappointed we walked along to the next block and found somewhere else. It was in no way up to the standard of Carl's hotel, the room we were assigned was up some dirty stairs to the top floor. The bed took up practically the whole room and was dingy to say the least. The shared bathroom was just along the hall and looked like a shower in a shed with a door that didn't lock and bits of wood and metal sheeting to cover holes in the roof. The upside was that it was dirt cheap allowing us more spending money for market day. We found a Mexican restaurant for dinner and then made a mad dash for our hotels afterwards as there was a huge downpour and thunderstorm. 

Spices and Flowers at Otovalo Market, Ecuador

Fabrics and Fashion at Otovalo Market, Ecuador

The next morning we ventured out for market day. The streets had been shut off to cars and stalls were gradually being put up row by row. Everything was being sold, from spices and vegetables to textiles and antiques. The market was a maze of tables and tarpaulin, we wandered down each aisle until we felt we'd seen everything on offer. I ended up spending around $40 on souvenirs for loved ones and myself. The most interesting stall was owned by a gentleman wearing rainbow coloured clothes and two sets of glasses, he looked like a wacky scientist. He had with him an array of coins from all different countries and he'd painstakingly cut out with a tiny saw parts of the coin to reveal the coins pretty image. Craig found an Argentinian coin displaying the sun, the artist had cut out around the suns rays creating a beautifully intricate effect. The market was fun and lively and a great place to finally buy some bits and pieces after months of only buying the bare essentials.

Snack Stop at the BBQ Corn Stand, Ecuador

The next day Craig and I would be moving onto Mindo while Carl would stay behind in Otavalo and then travel directly to Colombia. Before separating we decided to take a taxi to a lake that Craig had read about. After paying the $25 taxi fare we realised that we'd pointed to the wrong lake on a map, the lake we ended up at was pretty mediocre and it was a bit of a miserable day to boot. We chalked it up to our bad luck in Ecuador.

Once back in Otavalo we said goodbye to Carl and boarded our bus to Mindo. I was excited to get to Mindo, a town in the cloud forest sounded magical and intriguing to me. Our bus was stuck in traffic as a car had veered off the road and off a cliff, a sobering reminder of how dangerous South American roads can be. We were dropped on a main road an hours walk from Mindo itself with no taxis in sight. Annoyed we started to walk muttering how difficult our travels had been in Ecuador compared to everywhere else. We managed to flag down a car which turned out to be a taxi and we paid a few dollars to be taken to the bottom of the hill. The town was bustling. An American man introduced himself and led us to his tour office where his glamorous girlfriend called hotels and hostels searching for a room for the night. I couldn't understand how every room in the town had been booked and started to feel irritated that the only places available were well over our budget. I couldn't be sure if we were being taken for a ride or not. With our only other option to catch an evening bus back to Otavalo a good few hours away we decided to accept an expensive room in a home stay. A lady walked down to collect us and led us to her place, it turned out that she was a masseuse that rents her spare rooms out to tourists. She showed us to our characterful room and then walked us around her garden. Pointing to various plants she explained which gave her fruit and which she'd inherited when she moved in. Hummingbirds hovered magically in the air, zooming from one nectar rich flower to the next. We learned that it was a national holiday which is why the town was so busy and felt foolish for not arranging accommodation in advance. After a mediocre dinner we retreated to our room early to watch some True Detective to cheer ourselves up from another challenging day.

Ending Up at the Wrong Place, Ecuador

The Cable Car in Mindo, Ecuador

We woke the next day and decided to pack our bags to leave in the afternoon. The $20 fee for the room was too expensive and we didn't feel like staying for another night. We watched hummingbirds in the morning and then walked into town to get breakfast at a tiny sandwich shop housed inside a quaint shack. The owner was super friendly and the food cheap and delicious. We caught a taxi to the open air cable car so that we could at least see the cloud forest that we'd endured all this trouble to see. There was a huge queue as the cable car can fit just six people at a time and we found ourselves waiting in line for over an hour. Once in the cable car we whizzed over the tree tops to the other side of the valley, we could see dense forest all around and cloud covering the tips of trees in the distance. At the other side we walked down a steep slope to a waterfall. It started to rain causing the path to turn into a slippery muddy mess, we decided after seeing a few cascades to return to the cable car befriending a stray dog on the way. It felt great that despite the steep uphill walk I was able to trudge on without stopping, a reminder since the Santa Cruz trek to appreciate when I can walk without difficulty. Luckily we didn't have to wait too long for a return ride on the cable car, we stood up which made the experience slightly scarier but fun and caught a taxi back to the town. After another stop at the sandwich shop to refuel we returned to the garden and relaxed in hammocks while we waited for our 6pm coach. We left the hummingbird garden and bought ourselves some barbecued banana and corn before boarding our bus. Thanks to more holiday traffic the journey was delayed and once we got back to Quito it was a late and wet evening. There were no taxis anywhere around and so we had to go looking for one in a part of the city that we weren't familiar with. Eventually we flagged one down but he didn't have a clue where our pre booked hotel was and despite seeing its position on a map we couldn't see it in real life either. Tired and frustrated we checked into a random hotel on the main road, yet again cursing our bad luck.

Flora at the Cloud Forest, Ecuador

Flora at the Cloud Forest, Ecuador

The next day was the last day of February and our last day in Ecuador. I mentally totted up all the negative experiences we'd had and felt relieved to leave the country, hoping that Colombia would offer us a fresh start and some better luck. In fairness the hotel we'd been forced to stay in was ok and actually cheaper than the one we'd booked. We popped down the road for a local breakfast and were approached by a local man and his daughter. On hearing our British accents he asked if we'd like to stay with his family to befriend his daughter and help her learn English. We were quite sad that we had to turn him down, our strict time limits meant that we hadn't the time to spare. Perhaps it would have made for a positive experience to end Ecuador with, the friendly chat alone was welcome.

We hailed a taxi, boarded a bus for a five hour journey, caught another taxi to the Colombian border, received our exit and entry stamps and then caught another taxi to our first Colombian hotel named randomly 'Hotel Las Vegas' in Ipiales. Finally, we had arrived in our last country in South America after six months of travel. 

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