Nazca, Peru

Nazca; a town in the Peruvian desert with one big draw, the mysterious Nazca lines.

We took a comfortable overnight coach from Cusco to Nazca which arrived in the early morning. On board the coach we met Carl; a Swedish guy travelling the world without flying. His route and method of travel was fascinating; from Europe all the way to Rio de Janeiro by cargo ship stopping at various ports along the way. We went out for breakfast together, Carl told us about an ancient cemetery close by called Chauchilla Necropolis where you can see Nazcan mummies in open graves. It sounded creepy. Our visit to Nazca was solely to see the Nazca lines and we weren't aware of any other sights so we were intrigued.

The Nazcan Desert, Peru

Landscape surrounding the Nazca Cemetery 

Our hostel manger organised a car and driver for us; we picked another guy up on the way, funnily enough someone from our Machu Picchu tour group. We drove out into the arid desert, along tan coloured dusty roads. The desert is a dry place that sees barely any rain, as with many places on our journey the heat was exhausting. We pulled up and paid a small entrance fee. All I could see were a few shelters dotted about the flat landscape and some pathways outlined with rocks. I was preparing myself, Carl had said that he'd seen a documentary about the mummies which had been the stuff of nightmares. I didn't know what to expect. We walked up to an open grave sheltered from the sun with a makeshift wooden structure and grassy roof. The mummies were sat upright, skeletal legs crossed with skin still intact in places and long dreadlocked hair. Their jaws were open in an expression of horror and long matted hair gathered in a heap on the floor. Embellished cloth hung from the bones and inside the graves were preserved pottery and food including corn. The remarkable fact is that these mummies are over 1000 years old; I found this fact hard to reconcile in my head. More than 1000 years old and still displaying soft tissue and hair. The atmosphere has preserved the bodies incredibly and some research after visiting taught me that certain rituals helped to lessen decay including coating the deceased with resin and drying techniques.

We walked by each grave; along the paths were scattered human bones. The graves had been heavily plundered by locals looking to make money from any valuables to be found, bones were removed and left in disarray throughout the area. Luckily government protection has kept grave robbers at bay for many years and conservationists have replaced as many bodies as possible in their original resting places.

In the end I didn't find the cemetery to be creepy. I found it truly astonishing that these ancient people have been preserved and glad that their history can live on. Many people have heard about the Nazca lines, but not many think about the civilisation of people that created the spectacle or that lived in the area and predate the Incan and Mayan people.

Nazca Landscape from the Plane

Nazcan Landscape from the Plane

The next morning we woke up early to catch our short flight over the Nazca lines. We decided to fly early as there's less turbulence in the morning and we'd heard stories of people becoming very ill as the small plane banks left and right. We arrived at the tiny airport and were weighed, we then waited a few minutes before being called up. We'd be flying with two pilots and three other passengers. We were placed in the plane by our weight, Craig was seated at the front and I was at the back with two seats to myself. We put on our retro looking green headphones so that we could hear the pilots commentary. Contrary to reports we'd heard about safety we felt like we were in good hands, the two pilots were extremely professional. We sped along the runway and were off!

Green Headphones 

The landscape was overwhelmingly brown, dusty and flat. There were a few hills not too far away which provided some much welcome greenery to the desert. We flew over many of the lines and biomorphs which are the lines in animal shapes. It was incredible to see these patterns and creatures in the landscape made over a thousand years ago and subject to such mystery. We learned that the lines were made by removing the reddish brown top layer of dirt revealing the lighter colour earth underneath. Some of the biomorphs created include a hummingbird, spider, and a monkey with a perfectly spiralled tail. These were my favourites of the lines. There is also a human figure referred to as 'the astronaut' due to a shape around the head resembling a helmet. This could be one of the reasons why there is a conspiracy that the lines were alien-made and not man made, how would a civilisation over 1000 years old know what an astronaut looked like? The crazy theories are what give this amazing sight intrigue although I think it's amazing enough to imagine the Nazca people using simple methods to create such wonders that they wouldn't have been able to quite see properly from the ground.

The Monkey in Nazca, Peru

The Astronaut at Nazca, Peru

The pilots swirled the plane around so we could all see each of the patterns and biomorphs, I snapped away on the camera but also made sure to really look as some of them blend easily into the landscape. The 30 minute flight was coming to an end and so we headed back to the airport filled with excitement that we had witnessed one of Earths most intriguing and mysterious wonders. Motion sickness had not surfaced one bit for me thanks to a tablet I had taken prior to the flight and so it had been a completely enjoyable experience and one of the highlights of our trip so far.

The Hummingbird at Nazca, Peru 

A Sense of Scale; The Lizard, The Tree and The Hands with the Watchtower and Road

We got chatting to an Aussie guy from our flight and all went out for lunch together. I had a plate of rice and beans with a fried egg and sweet plantain, the beginning of my love for a cuisine found typically in parts of the Americas. In the afternoon we picked up our bags and caught the bus to Huacachina an oasis in the middle of sand dunes. The journey was fairly short and we passed by the Nazca lines watchtower on the way. After a short taxi ride from the bus station to Huacachina we checked in and then met Carl for dinner who had arrived the day before. Huacachina had a travellers vibe to it and thanks to the weekend was bustling. The warm air made walking at night a joy and we were looking forward to a couple of days of downtime.

Desert Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The Streets of Huacachina, Peru

The following day Craig and I enjoyed lunch together before he went to try sand boarding for the first time. As a keen skateboarder in his teens he was excited to try the sport which is similar to snowboarding but apparently slightly more difficult. I enjoyed a peaceful afternoon of writing. Craig returned sweaty and covered in sand top to toe. We watched GoPro footage of his attempts and I was very impressed, he was a natural. From the footage the dunes looked very high so I was quite glad that I sat this activity out as I think I would have been too scared to slide over the edge and I definitely would have spent more time on my bum than on my feet.

The Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The next day we checked out of our pricey room and moved over the road to the hotel Carl was staying at as there was a pool and relaxing sun lounge area. We had a day by the pool and went out for dinner together, besides that it was blissfully uneventful. The next day we managed to jump on a coach leaving that minute to Lima where Craig and I would be staying with a local family for a few days.

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Machu Picchu, Peru

Sitting on a rock by a Incan built stone wall, sneaking bites of a sticky raisin pastry, whispy clouds moving quickly, sunlight tickling the back of my neck, straining eyes to see distant people climbing Huayna Picchu, peace and quiet at the wonder.

Let's rewind for just a second. Getting to Machu Picchu was a little bit of a trial. Obviously not compared to taking one of the many multi-day treks in the area but as mentioned in a previous journal entry, we decided against a trek as the cons outweighed the pros for us. But at least by taking the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek you get bragging rights and a sense of accomplishment. We endured hours upon hours in a minivan teetering on the edge of sheer cliff faces and then a two and a half hour walk along uncomfortable stones and railway track in a downpour to reach Aguas Calientes. Dripping all over the hotel reception floor we had finally arrived at the town in the valley below Machu Picchu tired and with sore feet. We set our bags down in the damp room and peeled off our sodden clothes, our luminous plastic rain macs clung to our skin. After warming showers and dressing in dry clothes we ventured out for dinner where we ate the best veggie burgers of our entire trip so far. Why we've never thought to top burgers with refried beans before we don't know.

The next morning we awoke before sunrise. We had made a last minute decision the night before and decided to take a shuttle up the winding roads to Machu Picchu rather than walk the hundreds of steps. Craig joined the already long queue for bus tickets while I joined the even longer queue for the shuttle bus itself. The sun rose and illuminated the street, valley and Urubamba river. The excitement was palpable, many had endured days of walking to be here, some had simply jumped on a train but everyone was eager to get to the wonder.

Eventually the buses began to run, we were lucky enough to be on the second or third of the morning, each came in quick succession. We were driven along the side of the river and had to disembark to cross a metal bridge and then swiftly boarded the bus waiting on the other side. We zig-zagged our way up and up, Aguas Calientes became smaller as we ventured closer to the clouds. I couldn't help but feel awe at the location, in Incan times this place would have been completely isolated. The road appeared to have been cut into the landscape but besides that all that could be seen were trees.

We reached the top and joined the queue to scan our pre-bought tickets. We then waited for our tour guide to materialise, I was becoming increasingly impatient. The Incan citadel was out of sight but mere metres away and we were stood waiting outside with hoards of people, crammed together. Finally our English speaking guide appeared and led us through. We passed a straw thatched building and squeezed by the crowd to see Machu Picchu before us.

The Iconic View at Machu Picchu, Peru

Misty Morning at Machu Picchu in Peru

Iconic Huayna Picchu stood firm behind the citadel, perfectly preened terraces of grass cascaded down the steep valley walls and an ominous mist hung in the air giving Machu Picchu a haze of mystery. Smooth stone structures sat ripe for exploring and the surrounding mountains provided the most incredible setting for the Incan stronghold. We had donned our rain macs but the weather held out, the clouds which at first had collected to form an overcast sky started to dissipate. Slithers of blue appeared and as the sun broke free the intense heat could be felt immediately. 

Clouds in Constant Flux at Machu Picchu, Peru

The Beauty of the Mountains at Machu Picchu, Peru

Our guide ushered us around the site, stopping to point out local animals in his book and show us photographs taken when American explorer Hiram Bingham brought the ruins to attention in 1911 after being shown the site by a young local guide. Our senses were overwhelmed and we regularly fell behind the group taking photographs from every available angle. Each time the shutter clicked a cloud moved and the light changed, no two photographs were the same and in our eyes everything had to be captured. 

Once our tour had finished we left the complex briefly due to the one way system layout and used the opportunity to stamp a passport page with the souvenir stamp provided. We walked through the gates for a second time, our ticket was valid for three entries in a day to allow for food and bathroom breaks. We shot straight up the terraces to snap a photo of the view from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock which has had its thatched roof restored. A handy flat green area lies just behind the hut and is a perfect place to sit on the grass and look. Look at the expertly carved stones, the people posing, the children running and the light changing. 

Watching the Clouds at Machu Picchu, Peru

Facing Fears at the Inca Bridge, Machu Picchu, Peru

We took ourselves off to see the Inca Bridge, a walk which you are required to sign in and out of for safety. The path hugs the cliff and on the other side a small wall creates a barrier between you and a huge drop into the valley below. The short walk with wonderful views was highly enjoyable and the narrow Incan Bridge was fascinating to see. On close inspection the line of greenery along the cliff reveals a trail used by the Inca's. The bridge and trail are closed to the public for obvious safety reasons. 

The Trail to the Inca Bridge, Peru

The Inca Bridge at Machu Picchu, Peru

We returned along the same trail and made our way to the Sun Gate which was a longer walk uphill. In the baking heat of the midday sun this proved a little challenging but regular shady rest stops were ample respite. We reached the Sun Gate, rewarded with panoramic views over the valley and now distant citadel we sat and listened to birds, dozing for a few minutes and taking the opportunity to drink it all in. The Inca Trail comes through the Sun Gate so I snuck down the path a little and walked back through to see what would be the first view for the trekkers, knowing their efforts would be more than rewarded. 

Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

The Road to Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

We made our way back down the trail which was much easier going down and stopped for one last look before descending the terraces and walking to the shuttle bus. We'd spent nine hours at Machu Picchu, quietly observing all there was to see and feeling like no other place could ever live up to its magic. 

Us at Machu Picchu

High on the adventure of the previous day the walk back along the railway track was much easier and the rain only graced us for a few minutes leaving us dry enough for the long drive back to Cusco. 

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Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Peru

Sitting on a wooden bench in Cusco's pretty Plaza de Armas surrounded by beautiful and ancient buildings we had a decision to make. We'd just visited a tour office and been informed that if we wanted to do the famous Inca Trail then we could as due to low season permits were still available. The Inca Trail books up months in advance as only a select number of hikers a day are allowed entry, as we had no idea when we'd be in Peru we had discounted the idea of doing it completely. I was in turmoil, would we regret it if we didn't do it? Could we justify the high cost? Were we even feeling up to it after the altitude sickness in La Paz? In the end we decided to turn down the opportunity. Low season in Peru coincides with rainy season and I wasn't keen on the idea of trekking at high altitude in the pouring rain for three days, sometimes saying no to something is the right thing to do.

Instead we booked a minibus to take us from Cusco to Hidroelectrica where we'd then walk along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes the town that sits in a valley just below Machu Picchu. Our trip wasn't for a few days so we also booked two tours of the Sacred Valley to fit in as much as possible into our time in the area. After a day of decision making and acclimatising to the altitude we treated ourselves to dinner at Greenpoint a fantastic vegan restaurant. Walking at dusk through the vibrant alleyways by the Incan stone walls to the restaurant we peeked in little shops selling all sorts of curios; incense sticks, little statues and colourful fabrics; I was reminded of the quirky crystal shops in Glastonbury, England.

The next day in the afternoon we joined a tour of the local Sacred Valley sights. We were taken to Qorikancha a former convent turned museum where we learned how Incan walls were made; they required no mortar or cement as the stones were carved so precisely to fit together. We bought a chocolate covered custard filled doughnut from a local woman holding a tray outside, her sweet treats we're going down a storm. We visited many of the local sights but our favourite was Saqsayhuaman where we had just enough time to walk to a viewpoint over Cusco and admire the huge stone walls.

Cusco from Saqsayhuaman in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Local Woman and Alpaca in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Now we'd adjusted to the high altitude we decided to spend a full day exploring the Sacred Valley with an organised tour. The Boleto Turístico that we bought for 130 soles the day before would be our entrance ticket to all but one of the sights. First we stopped at a cultural centre to watch local women weave with naturally dyed wools, we were given a traditional drink to taste and of course encouraged to buy their handcrafted wares.

Naturally Dyed Wools in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Demonstration of Traditional Peruvian Craft in the Sacred Valley

The circular terraces of Moray were a sight to behold, each terrace was used by the Incans to grow experimental crops. The formation of the walls reminded me of an amphitheatre, the crops have since been replaced with lush green grass which is well managed. If you look closely at the walls you will notice small rocks jutting out which were the steps used by the Incans to easily walk from one terrace to the next.

Restored Moray Terraces in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Lush Green Moray in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Ollantaytambo is a name recognised by many who know of the Sacred Valley, the train to Machu Picchu departs from the small town but it also has an Incan sight of its own. We walked through the dusty town to the fortress and began walking up the steps. It was a hot day, the sun was blinding and the sky a perfect blue. The heat made walking a challenge, sweat dripped from my skin and my breathing was laboured. Everyone in the group tried to hide in a tiny sliver of shade created by the stone walls but the guide moved us all on to the top. The views of Ollantaytambo and the Incan sight were beautiful, facing the town and to the left was a cliff face where the Incan’s kept their produce, like a huge natural larder. To the right was a valley and on the other side of the valley was a quarry where the stones were sourced to build the fortress. The Incan’s would somehow have cut and collected the stone and with their might transported it across the valley and up the steep slopes. 

We tried our first Inca Cola at Salineras de Maras a salt mine which we paid an extra 10 soles to enter. Walking down the steps through market stalls selling tiny bags of medicinal salt, chocolate bars and trinkets we felt relief at being under some shade. Inca Cola is a luminous yellow colour, I couldn’t help but think it looked toxic when I saw other people swigging from the clear bottles with a blue label. It tasted however, just like sweet bubblegum. Water is collected in pools and evaporated to leave the salt behind, the pools looked like a patchwork quilt of browns in the valley. 

Salineras de Maras in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Patchwork Quilt Effect at Salineras de Maras in the Sacred Valley, Peru

My favourite sight of the day was Pisac. As we walked through the gates high in the valley the low sun shone through clouds casting shadows over the landscape. A man was playing a pipe; a tune I found so familiar as it has been played all throughout Peru. I’ve since learned that the tune is none other than Sound of Silence by Simon and Garfunkel, it will forever remain a reminder of the beautiful Peruvian landscapes. We walked through a stone structure and there stood Pisac, draped in golden light, infamous lush green terraces and stone walls. We walked to the stone buildings, high on the top it was windy and we began to feel a chill in the air. The guide pointed at holes in the cliff face across the valley; they are Incan tombs that have since been raided by people looking to make money selling the priceless trinkets found inside on the black market.

Terraces at Pisac in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Light and Shadow at Pisac in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Visiting the Sacred Valley sights has fuelled my interest in Incan culture and only makes me more excited to see the most famous Incan sight of them all, Machu Picchu. 

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